Deg takeover at the top

August 2010

Doing some work on the Sydney Eats site, our Jodie McLeod has noted a curious trend, and I quote: “In the past year, Bilson’s, Marque and Rockpool have joined Tetsuya’s and Berowra Waters Inn to offer multi-course and degustation menus only at dinner time, and as of October, Quay will also abandon its à la carte menu on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights — offering its tasting menu alone. I thought it would be interesting to find out why these chefs are making the move to choice-less dining — is the demand for ‘experience dining’ increasing, or do chefs just enjoy the power trip of being totally in control? Could it be said that set menus make things less challenging in the kitchen and possibly less impressive from the diner’s point of view? Or are set menus and matching wines the closest meals can come to perfection?”

These are damn good questions and next month I’ll try to get some answers to them. Anyone else got an idea why we’re reverting to the no-choice 18th century eating house system. Next thing you know we’ll be told when we can come. Hang on — that’s already started…

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