Japanese treat

October 2009

A friend has been raving about the sushi at Koi (102 Woolwich Road Woolwich, Ph 9817 6030) from chef Takashi Sano (the head chef is Kenji Nishinakagawa), whose progress my friend has been following for some time (I think Takashi started his Australian career as Tetsuya’s sushi chef). We went as a large group and were told that over 10 we’d be offered a set menu. OK, we said, how about a sushi degustation?

And that’s what we had — basically 21 dishes, the first a selection of sensational sashimi, the rest superb, delicate morsels of the finest seafood Takashi-san could source with light and delicate rice. My favourites were the creamy mussels, the full-bodied bonito and the luscious sashimi of scampi. Takashi adds his own wasabe, just enough to be felt and tasted, and there is often a hint of shiso leaf.

One word of warning: if you do order the degustation and you want to avoid the endangered southern bluefin tuna,  ask politely that it be left off and tell them why.

Another bonus here is an extensive sake menu, with the flight of four the way to go for the sake-ignorant (that’s me). What was intriguing about the sake was the way what at first sip appeared a relatively bland drink picked up power and complexity with the food.

A fine restaurant indeed, with seamless service, elegant surroundings and superb sushi. I wouldn’t mind trying some of the other offerings next visit.

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