March 2008

In the old Red Centre site at Crows Nest (MUMU Grill 70-76 Alexander Road 9460 6877), it's the brainchild of Craig Macindoe whom we last met at Café Tunis and The Tasting Room, and it sounds to this munger muncher like a real winner. Chef Andreas Kirschgasser comes on board from Wildfire and before that La Grillade and brings the meat knowhow.

Craig decided early on that grass-fed was the way to go and today is serving Taralga grass-fed beef from the southern highlands, the best beef I've eaten in a long time - and will be a showcase for all grass-fed beef producers. He came to the decision first through reading Weston A Price on environmental concerns and finally by putting it in his mouth. "We started serving grain-fed beef and then decided it just didn't taste as good as the grass-fed product." It all happens in the woodfired oven - alongside organic chicken, suckling pig and lamb.

There's also an 11-metre bar with a refrigerated tapas counter under it - with about 10 small plates on the menu and others according to seasonal availability. What you could do is order a big steak, slice it up and share it: beef tapas. Oh, and the coffee, Caffé Colombari, comes from his brother-in-law, Luke McSweeny. Well worth a look and an interesting addition to old Crowie.

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