December 2009

The summer run of tuna has started — punctual fish that they are — so keep your eyes peeled for it. Fix St James (111 Elizabeth St, Sydney, Ph 9232 2767) is serving it sliced and raw with a finger lime dressing as an entrée. Thanks to a compact kitchen and minimal storage space, this handy CBD spot changes its menu almost daily, so freshness and seasonality are guaranteed. So it might not be on when you go, but something equally good will be, like the mulloway fillet with fennel, saffron, spuds and peas.

It’s too warm for Pacific oysters now and they’ll be spawning any minute, but Sydney Rocks, particularly those from the south coast and Wallis Lake, continue to be good. Apart from our usual favourite oyster-scoffing haunts, like the Bayswater Brasserie and the Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay, they serve them at Rambutan with a chilli and fish sauce dressing and crisp shallots (96 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, Ph 9360 7772).

Spanish mackerel are in good supply and those chunky steaks are robust enough to stand up to the curry treatment. While it’s around, Makan @ Alice’s (262-264 Pennant  Hills Rd, Thornleigh, Ph 9484 8288) will be using it in rich Malaysian curries. Then again, they might be using ling. Options include sweet chilli or sour tamarind versions.

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