Fish

October 2010

The season for gorgeous calamari from South Australia continues and the difference in flavour between it and the imported frozen tubes is marked. It's always the fresh stuff and always on the menu at Fratelli Paradiso, simply tossed in flour or a mixture of that and semolina (depending on the chef's mood), then fried. Served on rocket with a dressing of a light mayo-like emulsion which includes reduced balsamic vinegar, it's fabulous.

Oysters are most likely to be from South Australia, Tasmania or the north coast this month and you'll find them all over the place. The Terrace on Pittwater keeps it simple, serving them with eschallot and chardonnay vinegar. There's a simple option at Masuya, too, with ponzu or you could go nuts and have them with wakame, salmon caviar and Japanese vinaigrette. Oyster purists might shudder at the thought of cooking them, but the tempura oyster, battered, fried and sprinkled with curry salt, is popular, as is misoyaki style, baked with creamy miso sauce.

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