Fruit

September 2008

We've hit spring and we've probably seen the last of winter's cumquats, but there's still plenty of good citrus about. Limes are still too expensive to be showing up on many menus, but you will find blood oranges as this year has been a bumper. Smart Italian diner, A Tavola, macerates this most glamorous citrus fruit with mandarin in Campari and serves it alongside its perfectly wobbly vanilla pannacotta.  There's still some great rhubarb about, too, which chef and owner of Element Bistro, Matt Barnett, is combining with Granny Smith apples in a crumble and serving with quatre epice custard. With treats like that, we don't want summer to come too quickly.

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