Fruit

September 2009

While we’re waiting for summer’s sweet mangoes we can bide our time with tart green ones in that feisty salad, som tum. We love the way they do it at Song Fang Khong with its serious chilli kick. It’s the perfect accompaniment to their sticky porky Lao sausages.

Make the most of mandarins, which are soon going to leave centre stage. Down at The Nun’s Pool they turn them into a steamed pudding with toffee, pistachio gelato and hazelnut praline. Bananas tend to look a bit dreary at this time of year, but those dull, greenish skins are deceptive. The flavour is great because they’re ripening at the right rate — faster than in winter but not as fast as in summer. They go beautifully into a baked chocolate and banana brioche, also at this smart southern café, which is served with cinnamon anglaise and vanilla bean gelato. Or there’s always the poached rhubarb served alongside the lemon rice pudding with pistachio biscotti.

Cumquats are about to finish, so if you’re the candying kind, get onto them. Otherwise, have them at Pony Lounge and Dining where they’re made into a gutsy chutney with red onion, pears, cardamom and dried chilli and served with Manchego cheese and chorizo sausage.

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