November 2009

We’re well and truly into spring now, so thoughts turn away from braising and towards grilling and, at least in restaurant-land, roasting. Suckling pig is nearly always on the menu at Pilu, but spring is the right time for it. Years of practise have taught Giovanni Pilu and his team to produce perfectly cooked and juicy flesh and crisp crackling, which, on a baby pig, is as fine as chicken skin. Heaven.

Everyone knows about Silva’s reputation for charcoal chicken, but there’s plenty more from that grill worth exploring. Try the quail and the smoky chorizo for starters before moving onto the espetada of veal rump. They don’t do anything flash here — just grill, season and serve — but it works.

And because it’s barbecue season, we’re probably thinking steaks even when we go out. Try the grass-fed Tasmanian Hereford sirloin with chips and salad at Tabou. It’s a real French classic.

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