Lots of action at the fish market this time of the year. Sydney fish include silver trevally, and a little later trumpeter whiting and good mulloway (AKA jewfish) coming out of the Hawkesbury. From NSW, look out for snapper, redfish and pilchards. You’ll also find an abundance of dusky flathead, wild kingfish and eastern school whiting from a little further afield. Local fishmonger Joto has a supply of short-spined urchin roe from Tasmania, which they tell us has a superior flavour.
At est. (Level 1, 252 George Street, Sydney, Ph 9240 3000) sous chef Adam Wolfeis explains that the sea urchin roe is put into a blender, cream is folded through with sherry vinegar and salt, and that’s served with shaved fennel with a garnish of hazelnuts and sliced roe.
Over at Garfish (2/21 Brought Street, Kirribilli, Ph 9922 4322) sous chef Richard Tipene uses the big snappers for snapper pie, and grills the baby fillets to serve with one of the daily garnishes — your choice.
Thanks to Wayne Hulme of Joto Fresh Fish