June 2010

Root vegies rule in winter and turnips of all sizes are showing up around town. They’re making what they call a “pearl barley, thyme and root vegetable cassoulet” down at Selah to be served with braised lamb necks in a dish that heralds winter if the chill winds hadn’t already.

Baby carrots are a support act for the braised oxtail with potato puree at Number One Wine Bar (Shop 1, Goldfields House, Alfred St, Sydney, Ph 8252 9296). The Queensland crop of adult carrots is just starting now that the Tassie season’s wound down. You’ll find them at Selah for dessert in spiced carrot cake with cream cheese, carrot puree and candied walnuts.

The Four in Hand lightens one seriously wintry dish of veal cheeks, fillet and bone marrow with grilled baby fennel and cherry tomatoes, which are both good and plentiful now.

Although not officially beetroot peak season yet, there’s plenty around. It’s pickled to become a sweet, tangy foil for rich beef cheeks at the Welcome Hotel and boiled to a syrupy reduction and served with pan-roasted jewfish and white bean ratatouille at Sugaroom.

Ever-reliable eggplant comes up a treat at the new Indian restaurant, Connaught Place (69 Wigram St, Harris Park, Ph 9633 4455). It’s braised in a creamy mix of pounded nuts including cashews as well as chillies. Don’t forget to order the naan for that gravy

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