Never fear, the beloved pizzas $22 have not disappeared with the change of hands here. They still come wood-fired, thin, unfussy and crisp around the edges, just the way new owner Peter Zuzza likes. The rest of the menu is mostly on the blackboard: an ever-changing selection of stuzzichini — appetiser-size plates of Italian morsels, all $16 — and a few pasta options. Tagliata of thinly sliced, just-seared veal with a flavoursome toupee of rocket, parmesan and truffle paste is ideally shared alongside prosciutto-wrapped figs stuffed with gorgonzola. You’ll need a macchiato after sampling several fine Italian wines by the glass, followed perhaps by ricotta-filled canolo embedded with tiny nuggets of orange peel and chocolate inside $11. Who said pizza was the be-all and end-all?

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109 Ramsay St, Haberfield, Australia