Cuisine: Nonya,Malaysian

A little oasis wrapped around the end of the Eden Park block on busy Lane Cove Road (carpark at rear), Sambal does a roaring lunch trade with worker bees from the surrounding industrial areas drawn by hawker dishes such as nasi goreng $14.80 and sar hor fun, flat rice noodles in chicken and prawn soup $15.80. At dinner, the standards come out: chilli crab (the reluctant stars of the show are writhing in a basket near the door), kapitan chicken, belacan beans and a melt-in-the-mouth beef rendang $18.80, plus succulent tau eu bak, tender braised pork in soy sauce $17.80. For our money, the hits are Nonya salad with shredded cucumber, fried beancurd and prawn fritters $17.80 and searing otak otak, parcels of spicy fish mousse in banana leaves $13.50. Every third Sunday lunch is roti canai, a highly addictive dish of hot flaky bread with chicken curry $12.80.

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