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YIAMAS GREEK TAVERNA

Cuisine: Greek

Located beneath a weathering apartment building (which could pass for an ancient Greek ruin), Yiamas sports a sea of clean aqua walls and ceramic tiles: modern, smart and very Sydney. A Ken Done-like Greek wall mural stretches across a rear wall, straddling both cultures. A Spartan menu is perfectly encapsulated in the kondosouvli, a platter of dips, salad and subtly marinated pork, chicken and lamb, all spit cooked to perfection, $49 for two. Must-haves are a tangy horta salad (endives) $9, salt-and-pepper calamari $14.50 and keftedakia (meatballs). Banquets are $39 for nine courses. The atmosphere is light and airy and the service friendly — crayons appear in a flash to keep the youngsters occupied and happy. Great value and an enjoyable experience. Yiamas (cheers)!

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