Assiette

We all expect good chefs to concentrate on flavour, but Warren Turnbull’s keen sense of texture, colour and fun result in beautifully balanced and occasionally quirky dishes. Settle into the pale-walled room with its soaring sash windows and dark carpet and go on all the rides. You’ll discover that pan-fried scallops work a treat alongside an onion bhaji with curried cauliflower puree and minted yoghurt. Veal shows up three ways — fillet, shank and sweetbreads — with spiced pumpkin, almonds and gnocchi in an elegant main. Then for a textural treat, try citrus terrine with rhubarb, sauternes mousse and mandarin sorbet. A flash wine list offers plenty of options by the glass. Entree $22, main $33, dessert $16, Friday lunch three courses $30, degustation $90, with wine $150.