Bistrode

Understated, out of the way and cutting edge — that’s the lowdown on this surprise diner resembling an old-fashioned milkbar. Run by husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Jane Strode, it offers food that is honest, local and full of flavour. The menu changes virtually weekly, so you won’t always find the same things available, but keep your eye out for pig’s head terrine with piccalilli or Roquefort and fennel tart, both $17. Mains $28.50–$34.50 have a focus on produce at its peak: expect Berkshire pork belly with red cabbage, veal liver and bacon, or blue-eye with whitebean stew and duck confit. Desserts, around $16, featured an unusual honey tart with peanut butter icecream when we were there, and the cheese selection is very, very serious. A new pergola with automated louvres has lifted the courtyard, too.