Tabou

Tabou is a rarity in Sydney: a restaurant with an identity stronger than any individual chef. It’s run by, and for, grown-ups who know that food is only one element in the dining experience – confident service, well-chosen wines and an easy bistro atmosphere play equally important parts. What’s on the plate is classic French cooking tweaked by the seasons – the house rabbit terrine with cornichons $18 or zucchini flower and salt cod fritters $18, followed by roasted king fish with celeriac and a luscious smoked eel butter $35, for example. It’s unpretentious, with a bit of style, much like the surroundings – classically French bentwood chairs, square white-clothed tables and a mirrored wall, scrawled with specials. We need restaurants like this.