Osvaldo Polletti

It’s funny how often we find ourselves sidling into Osvaldo. Why? Not really for the plain decor that’s like a provincial Italian tratt. It’s the food and the fact that it just comes, on its own, well-cooked and without any fuss. The menu changes with pleasing regularity and you might get something like arancini with squid ink — they call it nerocini $13 — or eggplant ravioli and a tomato and salted ricotta sauce. A deboned rabbit stuffed with chestnuts $26 is another seasonal offering that tells the relaxed Italian regional story — and, God knows, we should be eating all the rabbits we can. The wine list suffers for the same pleasing simplicity, offering a handful each of excellent Italian regional reds and whites.